Everest EFI Weber Carburetor conversion | TruckMount Forums #1 Carpet Cleaning Forums

Everest EFI Weber Carburetor conversion

Braeden

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Braeden Stewart
Hi I’m new to the the forum but looking for someone that possibly has done what I’m wanting to do with my truck mount. I have a Prochem Everest EFI with the a15 Nissan engine, I am on my 3rd throttlebody and ECU and now this one is going out again, I’m fed up with it and wanting to do a carburetor conversion on it, I was told that if I went aftermarket and put a 2 barrel Weber on it that I would not need a governor and could just run a aircraft style throttle cable for the speed control. Has anyone put a Weber Carburetor and done this kind of conversion on their Nissan Everest or older performer machines with the same engine? Is there anything I’m overlooking in wanting to do this? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

SRD

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Id get with a company like zenith or someone... id be willing to bet they have a direct replacement for it to switch from efi to carb.
 
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Braeden

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Id get with a company like zenith or someone... id be willing to bet they have a direct replacement for it to switch from efi to carb.
Redline Weber makes a Weber conversion kit for the Nissan engine, just not specifically for a truck mount, should be the same tho. I’ve tried to contact zenith and I only ever get the voicemail and have left messages and not getting return call from them.
 

SRD

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Redline Weber makes a Weber conversion kit for the Nissan engine, just not specifically for a truck mount, should be the same tho. I’ve tried to contact zenith and I only ever get the voicemail and have left messages and not getting return call from them.
Id buy the webber
 

Ara Klujian

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I think it will work. All it is, is an aftermarket two barrel carburetor with all the hardware including spacers and gaskets. You don't absolutely need to have a governor, but it helps to control the rpm's under a load. Someone may have told you that you don't need a governor because the cars that the a12 and the a15 had governors built into the transmissions. It's not going to have some type of extra part that controls the rpm under load. So if you are concerned about the dip in rpm's then it's probably a good idea to have a game plan in case your not happy. The only thing I can think of that would assist very little in the drop in rpm's is to have a dashpot on the carb. But a dashpot is simply not enough to keep the rpm's from dropping under longer load for an extended period of time. Looks like a nice carb though.

 

Braeden

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Braeden Stewart
I think it will work. All it is, is an aftermarket two barrel carburetor with all the hardware including spacers and gaskets. You don't absolutely need to have a governor, but it helps to control the rpm's under a load. Someone may have told you that you don't need a governor because the cars that the a12 and the a15 had governors built into the transmissions. It's not going to have some type of extra part that controls the rpm under load. So if you are concerned about the dip in rpm's then it's probably a good idea to have a game plan in case your not happy. The only thing I can think of that would assist very little in the drop in rpm's is to have a dashpot on the carb. But a dashpot is simply not enough to keep the rpm's from dropping under longer load for an extended period of time. Looks like a nice carb though.

 

Braeden

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Braeden Stewart
I think it will work. All it is, is an aftermarket two barrel carburetor with all the hardware including spacers and gaskets. You don't absolutely need to have a governor, but it helps to control the rpm's under a load. Someone may have told you that you don't need a governor because the cars that the a12 and the a15 had governors built into the transmissions. It's not going to have some type of extra part that controls the rpm under load. So if you are concerned about the dip in rpm's then it's probably a good idea to have a game plan in case your not happy. The only thing I can think of that would assist very little in the drop in rpm's is to have a dashpot on the carb. But a dashpot is simply not enough to keep the rpm's from dropping under longer load for an extended period of time. Looks like a nice carb though.

I was planning on running the rpms a little higher than they are running in stock form with the low, med, high settings with a digital tiny tach so that the bog down doesn’t bother me.
 

Ara Klujian

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I was planning on running the rpms a little higher than they are running in stock form with the low, med, high settings with a digital tiny tach so that the bog down doesn’t bother me.
Honestly it doesn't matter if you raise the rpm's. It still drops under load. It's going to bother you if you have an ear for normal engine operation. What will work in your favor is these engines need to be run on the rich side of things anyway. It needs to adjusted at the richest most steady rpm. If that means anything to you. But not overly rich to the point where your washing walls. And another thing that will surely benefit you is to change the vacuum relief to free flow. That eases up a tremendous amount of unnecessary low end load.
 
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Braeden

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Honestly it doesn't matter if you raise the rpm's. It still drops under load. It's going to bother you if you have an ear for normal engine operation. What will work in your favor is these engines need to be run on the rich side of things anyway. It needs to adjusted at the richest most steady rpm. If that means anything to you. But not overly rich to the point where your washing walls.
Ya that makes sense
 

Ara Klujian

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I say go for it. I really don't like fuel injection on a truckmount. There's just to many things that can go wrong and prevent money from being made. Most truckmounts already have a million things can breakdown. For me its one less headache and cost. Look at what your dealing with now. It sucks. It's not a damn car. Your not using it on a steep hill or great incline to warrant a benefit.
 

Braeden

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I say go for it. I really don't like fuel injection on a truckmount. There's just to many things that can go wrong and prevent money from being made. Most truckmounts already have a million things can breakdown. For me its one less headache and cost. Look at what your dealing with now. It sucks. It's not a damn car. Your not using it on a steep hill or great incline to warrant a benefit.
Ya I agree, and I’ve already replaced the throttle body and ecu and wiring harness twice before over the years, that gets so expensive it’s crazy So I just dont want to go down that road again. The throttle body is only a year old it still is working, my issue is in the ecu or the wiring harness again this time. So once I swap the carb on and decide if I like it then I’ll have that throttle body for sale if anyone knows someone with the Nissan Everest that needs one
 

Braeden

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Braeden Stewart
Honestly it doesn't matter if you raise the rpm's. It still drops under load. It's going to bother you if you have an ear for normal engine operation. What will work in your favor is these engines need to be run on the rich side of things anyway. It needs to adjusted at the richest most steady rpm. If that means anything to you. But not overly rich to the point where your washing walls. And another thing that will surely benefit you is to change the vacuum relief to free flow. That eases up a tremendous amount of unnecessary low end load.
How do I go about adjusting the vacuum relief to free flow?
 

Joe cool

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A simple 1 barrel Solex or Zenith new would be my choice .
Preferably with a electric choke but not truly nesisery.
 

Ara Klujian

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Let me know if you find the kit
Here is the link. If you don't like that one or if you don't want to drill your tank, i recommend removing the relief valve that is on the unit and replacing it with a bigger sturdier valve from a local Hardware
store.
I think after you put the carb on you are gonna want this. It really frees up the load on the engine and you still get your lift specs once it's set. If it was me without the governor I would put free flow on my truckmount. It's better than that any relief breaker sold on any machine.
 

Braeden

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Mar 5, 2020
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Braeden Stewart
Here is the link. If you don't like that one or if you don't want to drill your tank, i recommend removing the relief valve that is on the unit and replacing it with a bigger sturdier valve from a local Hardware
store.
I think after you put the carb on you are gonna want this. It really frees up the load on the engine and you still get your lift specs once it's set. If it was me without the governor I would put free flow on my truckmount. It's better than that any relief breaker sold on any machine.
So I did the Weber swap, it runs awesome, super easy operation and works great, only problem I have is the waste tank shut off not working now, I ran the power wire for the coil through a relay as a break in it to kill the engine when flipped on but can’t figure which wire to use as a signal wire for the relay when the waste tank switch is turned on, in otherwords which wire does the waste tank switch send 12v power to when it is full and switch is on?