Purchased a used 2008 Blueline Bluewave Diesel. Any thoughts of what to look out for. | TruckMount Forums #1 Carpet Cleaning Forums

Purchased a used 2008 Blueline Bluewave Diesel. Any thoughts of what to look out for.

Hawkins

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While we are talking about the BlueWave. I have one that I like very much. However, it has recently started cutting off on me when it gets warmed up. I also noticed that the default idle setting kicks over to regular idle much sooner that it used to. It seems to me that possibly a sensor for the temp is going out/ reading wrong. Almost like the machine thinks its running hotter than it actually is and cutting its self off. Does that sound right? Anyone ever had that problem before?
As for your machine wuznmee is a good one to ask. But it sounds like one of two things might be happening. One, these machines come with two thermostats. One for the liquid heat exchanger and one for flowing through the radiator. If the one for the radiator isn't opening up and the other is it could trigger the temp sensor. I would get a temp gun at your local parts store and check both thermostats as the engine warms up. If it goes up to 265 or higher she's over heating and you should replace both thermostats. Wuznmee told me that those temp sensors can cause problems over time to. Second when you turn the key to accessory you should here the fan come on. If it doesn't check power to the fan. If there is no power you might have a relay that crapped out and if you do have power then your fan needs to be replaced. if you have a bad fan use wuznmee suggestion as listed above. You can still get the break down of the machine and wiring schematic off line if you don't already have it. Hope this helps.

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cleanstreaksc

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Thanks. Yes it does help. The reason I'm inclined to think that is a sensor is by how quickly it started switching over from the default idle setting. The other morning when I started it, it was 37 outside and it switched over to the higher idle setting within about three minutes of cranking it up. No way it reached the proper temp in just three minutes.

Glad there are forums for discussing this geeky sort of stuff!
 

Hawkins

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Sounds like a good place to start. I have also heard that the low pressure switch on the cat pump can cause problems with early shut off to. So you might keep that in mind if the temp switch doesn't take care of the issue. it has been completely removed off my machine, I suspect for that reason. It was like that before I got it.
 

wuznmee

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These erratic rpm issues are "almost" always related to either temp or fuel supply issues.

I think we have pretty much covered the temp issues but, I would like to mention a couple other oddball issues that I've seen.

I've replaced several fuel solenoids because of leak issues. The solenoid develops a "dribble". It's not easy to spot because it travels down, into and through the wire loom / casing and ends up dripping down on to the catalytic heat exchanger. If you have a mystery raw fuel smell... look here first. It's not repairable, you must replace the solenoid.

The number one spark plug wire "drags" on the governor linkage and effects the rpm. While you're in there... get rid of that zip-tie that they use to bundle the plug wires right off the coils. That's never a good idea. And... you don't even want to know what those coils cost.

I have seen fried wires on the speed switch itself, causing erratic rpm. I think this all goes back to the ground issues discussed earlier.

Fuel pumps.. fuel pumps.. fuel pumps and more fuel pumps. Get rid of that lawnmower quality fuel pump! Napa makes an automotive grade universal fuel pump that resolves this issue. I believe it's pressure range is 2.5 to 7 ps1? You will need to add a pressure regulator with it and dial it in at 3 psi. I will try to find their part number and post it later.
 
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cleanstreaksc

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These erratic rpm issues are "almost" always related to either temp or fuel supply issues.

I think we have pretty much covered the temp issues but, I would like to mention a couple other oddball issues that I've seen.

I've replaced several fuel solenoids because of leak issues. The solenoid develops a "dribble". It's not easy to spot because it travels down, into and through the wire loom / casing and ends up dripping down on to the catalytic heat exchanger. If you have a mystery raw fuel smell... look here first. It's not repairable, you must replace the solenoid.

The number one spark plug wire "drags" on the governor linkage and effects the rpm. While you're in there... get rid of that zip-tie that they use to bundle the plug wires right off the coils. That's never a good idea. And... you don't even want to know what those coils cost.

I have seen fried wires on the speed switch itself, causing erratic rpm. I think this all goes back to the ground issues discussed earlier.

Fuel pumps.. fuel pumps.. fuel pumps and more fuel pumps. Get rid of that lawnmower quality fuel pump! Napa makes an automotive grade universal fuel pump that resolves this issue. I believe it's pressure range is 2.5 to 7 ps1? You will need to add a pressure regulator with it and dial it in at 3 psi. I will try to find their part number and post it later.
One other think I noticed. When you pull off the cover to the units right side, the temperature relay is there towards the top. One of the female wire fittings that clips on the male connection looks like its burnt. Could that be shorting and causing a problem with the temp reading?
 

Hawkins

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One other think I noticed. When you pull off the cover to the units right side, the temperature relay is there towards the top. One of the female wire fittings that clips on the male connection looks like its burnt. Could that be shorting and causing a problem with the temp reading?
Absolutely. Definitely don't want to rule that out. Wuznmee made a good point about the ground wires earlier in this post. They should really be looked at. When I checked all of mine they were in sad shape. I replaced all ground connections and double checked all my power connections as well. Bad grounds cause lots of resistance and heats wires up and in some cases can cause them to melt or burn.

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Hawkins

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Hey everyone. Back with another Blueline Bluewave Diesel question. So I have set my vacuum brake to open at around 14 inches of lift. I tried to set it at 15 inches of lift but when capped off it bogged my kubota diesel down pretty hard and made me a little nervous. So I set it back to 14. My question is, does that sound right for the engine to bog down to the point to where it sounds like its about to shut off. Keep in mind this engine has around 4000 hours on it. At idle it sounds great but the technician inside me says it shouldn't do that at 15 inches of lift. Could it possibly be weak injectors, failing mechanical fuel pump, low compression. I checked for restrictions in the exhuast (no restriction found), checked for weak electric fuel pump (replaced it with no difference), Checked blower for loose shaft and or drag (its fine), air filter is new, and performed valve adjustment. Maybe this is normal. What do you guys think?
 

Hawkins

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I talked to another fellow carpet cleaner in town who has a prochem everest. Same blower (408 tri-lobe) but with the 4 cylinder hyundai engine. He fired his up and capped off the vacuum, his guage said 20 inches of lift and it felt like it. I asked him how long he had been running it that way. He said for the last 4 to 5 years. He is bussy all the time. Every day all day long.
 

wuznmee

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Hey Matt... You more than likely have an injector issue. You can have them rebuilt and flow tested for about 25.00 each. Check your air intake filters too.
 
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Hawkins

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Hey Matt... You more than likely have an injector issue. You can have them rebuilt and flow tested for about 25.00 each. Check your air intake filters too.
I thought so. Air filters are good. I am going to have those injectors checked out though. Just keeps coming back to me that I might have an injector issue.
 

bob_rugratz

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oriellys give lifetime warranty on certain alternator brands. I used warranty 3 times on my durango , and once on my denali. soon as I see a discharge I have them check it. They stand by it I would say.
 

Hawkins

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@wuznmee I need your help bro. I've been really busy the last few weeks and with this warm weather we've been having my machine has been shutting down in the hotter part of the day. Here what I've done so far. Replaced fan, bleed cooling system, changed oil with a better grade to handle higher temps, changed all filters, changed radiator cap, added some be cool to the radiator. In the end I always have to pull the hood of top and hook up an air mover to the machine just to finish the job. I can't help but think that thermostats are possibly restricting flow maybe or not opening up all the way. What are thoughts? Thanks. Temps have been the highest at 108 degrees here.
 

jbc71

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My friend had one that was overheating he moved the computer board out of the engine cabinet and secured it to the big vac line that leads to the waste tank. Looked not great but solved his provlem
 
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barefoot

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When it shuts down does it sputter and run eradically before the shutdown?

If it does.... you my try insulating your fuel pump and fuel regulator valve. I insulated them with foam pipe wrapping and it totally solved all my heat related shut down problems.

I have a Genesis 5.9 truck mount however but same idea.
 

barefoot

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When it shuts down does it sputter and run eradically before the shutdown?

If it does.... you my try insulating your fuel pump and fuel regulator valve. I insulated them with foam pipe wrapping and it totally solved all my heat related shut down problems.

I have a Genesis 5.9 truck mount however but same idea.
Oops. Not sure that diesel suffer from vapor lock like my gas engine Genesis 5.9. Nevermind.
 
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Hawkins

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My friend had one that was overheating he moved the computer board out of the engine cabinet and secured it to the big vac line that leads to the waste tank. Looked not great but solved his provlem
When it shuts down does it sputter and run eradically before the shutdown?

If it does.... you my try insulating your fuel pump and fuel regulator valve. I insulated them with foam pipe wrapping and it totally solved all my heat related shut down problems.

I have a Genesis 5.9 truck mount however but same idea.
This is blue lines diesel model fellas. There is no computer. And I can hear the fuel pump running after it shuts down. I turn the key, it fires right back up and then dies after a few seconds. I can tell one of the safety features is triggering cause the fuel shut off solenoid shuts off and that's what kills the engine like turning the key off. However if I hook up an air mover just to blow the hot heat coming from the top off and away from the engine the thing will stay running. I need to take my temp gun with me next time to see if the thermostats are really working or not. The coolant safety switch will trigger somewhere around 240 degrees I think. I need to see if that's really what's happening.