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EZ Truckmounts owners roll call

Jan Sullins

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I bet that was half my problem honestly. I was told to run it full throttle all the time.

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Jeff I understand exactly what you mean. I remember when I was getting my TM built and even the owner encouraged us
to run throttle at full speed. Like 3500 rpms! If people on this forum could understand that with heatexhanger technology
half of the success has to do with control of truckmount tempature. These days we use 25HP engines to run 45 . 22HP is
plenty to run that kind of truckmount. I remember having two White Magic slide in truckmounts. One was a Pro 1500 which
had a 24HP Onan engine which ran somewhere around 2500 rpm. The blower ran at 2900. The engineering into the vacuum
side of the TM was outstanding. I also had a Pro 1700 which had a Kawasaki 20HP LC engine with a 45 blower which ran at
around 3000. Having a coolant preheater heatexhanchanger made the 1700 out perform the 1500 as far as heat but not vacuum.
They were both the same.. The 1500 would run with temps around 190 and for us we really liked it. The truckmount ran at ease almost
and yet produced outstanding cleaing. The 1700 did equally as well if it were not for a defective Kawasaki engine. Not White Magic's
fault. Many of us back in the 1990's did not feel we needed 250 degree heat but rather 190 to 200 was fine and for the technology of
the day these machines did pretty well. Other machines would run their engines slower with heatexhangers and there were less
problems with them and pumps etc...I think some had the idea that just because and engine is aircooled it must run at full rpms
to get adequate cooling but with truckmounts it just doesn't work out that way. I would not be supprised if customers for the
less expensive EZ;s Ametex's etc...would have completely different truckmount experiences if they just ran their engines at much
lower rpms. True your heat would have been less and your vacuum would have been slightly less but I think there would have
been far less problems with these machines. I will take a steady diet of 180 degree heat with less worries of overheating and
burning up heatexhangers than running these machines at full tilt and constantly having issues while have superheated
soltuions burning up pumps as well. I could be wrong but it may be as simple as this . Running machines within reasonable limits
may have prevented a ton of problems related to over heating and vibration! I am not an engineer but I think this is common sense.
 

smart n kleen

Smart N Kleen
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Jeff I understand exactly what you mean. I remember when I was getting my TM built and even the owner encouraged us
to run throttle at full speed. Like 3500 rpms! If people on this forum could understand that with heatexhanger technology
half of the success has to do with control of truckmount tempature. These days we use 25HP engines to run 45 . 22HP is
plenty to run that kind of truckmount. I remember having two White Magic slide in truckmounts. One was a Pro 1500 which
had a 24HP Onan engine which ran somewhere around 2500 rpm. The blower ran at 2900. The engineering into the vacuum
side of the TM was outstanding. I also had a Pro 1700 which had a Kawasaki 20HP LC engine with a 45 blower which ran at
around 3000. Having a coolant preheater heatexhanchanger made the 1700 out perform the 1500 as far as heat but not vacuum.
They were both the same.. The 1500 would run with temps around 190 and for us we really liked it. The truckmount ran at ease almost
and yet produced outstanding cleaing. The 1700 did equally as well if it were not for a defective Kawasaki engine. Not White Magic's
fault. Many of us back in the 1990's did not feel we needed 250 degree heat but rather 190 to 200 was fine and for the technology of
the day these machines did pretty well. Other machines would run their engines slower with heatexhangers and there were less
problems with them and pumps etc...I think some had the idea that just because and engine is aircooled it must run at full rpms
to get adequate cooling but with truckmounts it just doesn't work out that way. I would not be supprised if customers for the
less expensive EZ;s Ametex's etc...would have completely different truckmount experiences if they just ran their engines at much
lower rpms. True your heat would have been less and your vacuum would have been slightly less but I think there would have
been far less problems with these machines. I will take a steady diet of 180 degree heat with less worries of overheating and
burning up heatexhangers than running these machines at full tilt and constantly having issues while have superheated
soltuions burning up pumps as well. I could be wrong but it may be as simple as this . Running machines within reasonable limits
may have prevented a ton of problems related to over heating and vibration! I am not an engineer but I think this is common sense.
And higher quality parts like exhaust and hoses.
 

Jan Sullins

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And higher quality parts like exhaust and hoses.

I do not wish anybody to feel that I am insensitive to the problems some of you have had with these truckmounts.
They were not engineered properly nor were some of the OEM parts as good as they should be. Then told to run
engines at highest rpms equals problems early in the life of these machines. I feel for you guys as I am in a situation
where I have a truckmount which for now may work for me if I run it at lower rpms and keep an eye on problems
developing before they are problems. This may be impossible. As mentioned earlier by someone we can pull heatexhangers
and run a simple propane system. This does away with overheating system. And all the difficulties that come with
heatexchanger technology. To put together an engine that turns a blower and a pump is not too complicated and was
done back in the 1970s and 1980s with machines lasting thousands of hours without any major breakdowns. They were
simple and built well. Even then they did not run air cooled engines at highest rpms . Many were direct coupled engine
to blower with belt driving pump. So running engine at 2900-3000 was the norm in those days. I saw Hydramaster
Hydracats with Onan 20 HP engines turning Sutorbilt 4M blowers with Paloma heaters into the 2000's. So I am very
sorry to hear of ones on this forum who have had their businesses practically ruined by poorly conceived equipment.
I think we all were thinking about how cheap we could become truckmounted without considering the "what ifs" about
the manufactures ability to take care of problems that as we know did and are happening. When we lose communication
with the persons who build this equipment then that puts us in a very vulnerable situation. It has been unnecessary and has
created a lot of hard feelings which are understandable. Some may be fortunate enough to know of good mechanics
or may be mechanically inclined themselves but most of us are not in that situation. I ask only that those manufacturers
attempt to at least communicate with customers some of which may not survive without some sort of help.That is the morally
right thing to do.
 
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Ed Cruz

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Even with those better parts running these engines at way too high rpms is a bad idea!
And what about all the guys with nothing for hours having problems? It's a free country but when you get some hours under your belt your words may have weight. A Briggs mechanic told me running it at full rpms was better but he is looking at it from the standpoint of the engine. The pump and blower along with the other components have to be considered. I havent run mine at 3600 in a long time. EZ in my case atleast has little to no quality control in my opinion.
 

Ed Cruz

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Not sure I know what you mean Ed?
What I mean, meant was you have no hours under your belt running your machine but are giving guys glowing reviews of your unit......and that's your prerogative I guess but don't you find that irresponsible? Yeah you get a pump, blower, engine and its sits on stainless. But how good is it if you got to wrench on it right outta the crate? And I ain't talking about tightening a couple bolts.......what about delay after delay in getting it then not getting all the crap you payed for and having to wait and wait? It's about integrity. I figured out almost right away that running it at full rpm was unnecessary so don't be trying to come at me side ways implying guys running them at too high an rpm is what messed stuff up. Especially when that's what EZ told them to do.
 

Ed Cruz

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Ed Cruz

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Here you go guys.......you run tour fingers INSIDE the bottom of the fresh tank and this is what I got......and mind you this is after back in April getting a "new and improved" rebuilt unit. The belly tank was loaded with metal chards and sediment that took me hours to scrub as best as I could reach in it and suck out. Now there's some along with this paint crap. I'm supposed to clean with this? I put the plastic tank back in till it gets warmer out and I'm less busy to fug with it. Wish I'd never sent him my unit back to be rebuilt as I had already worked the "bugs" outta that one. Oh I did I mention the port hole on the fresh tank leaks so forget about letting it sit more than half full over night unless you want a mess. These may seem small to some but it has a cumulative effect on an otherwise easy going chap such as myself.
 

Jan Sullins

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What I mean, meant was you have no hours under your belt running your machine but are giving guys glowing reviews of your unit......and that's your prerogative I guess but don't you find that irresponsible? Yeah you get a pump, blower, engine and its sits on stainless. But how good is it if you got to wrench on it right outta the crate? And I ain't talking about tightening a couple bolts.......what about delay after delay in getting it then not getting all the crap you payed for and having to wait and wait? It's about integrity. I figured out almost right away that running it at full rpm was unnecessary so don't be trying to come at me side ways implying guys running them at too high an rpm is what messed stuff up. Especially when that's what EZ told them to do.
Ed I understand the frustration. Things should be right when you get a machine that costs thousands of dollars
to purchace. My experience was certainly not perfect. I have had to work on it a few times and really with a brand
new machine you shouldn't . And now what really makes it tough is not being able to get a hold of anybody if you do
have a problem.
 
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Ed Cruz

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So I opened up the HX........I had a leak from a loose compression fitting causing the box to leak. Inside I see that they had the exhaust pipe just slathered in some kind of silicone. Sloppy as fug. Had to chuckle a bit. Prolly to protect the coil but it just looks bad. I think I may just tear out the whole crappy HX and add a Little Giant and run it like a Judson C4. It would actually be a little cooler given I have the stainless 100gal fresh belly tank. When it gets warmer though.....
 

emeraldclean

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So I opened up the HX........I had a leak from a loose compression fitting causing the box to leak. Inside I see that they had the exhaust pipe just slathered in some kind of silicone. Sloppy as fug. Had to chuckle a bit. Prolly to protect the coil but it just looks bad. I think I may just tear out the whole crappy HX and add a Little Giant and run it like a Judson C4. It would actually be a little cooler given I have the stainless 100gal fresh belly tank. When it gets warmer though.....
Hope things work out for you with that TM.... sucks to hear this.
All the best
Grant
 

eddie day

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The above failed Heat Exchangers are from my 2013 EZ1633 which were eventually replaced. The Copper Coil didn't last long at all, like less than 50 hours. But the flexible connections are there which proved better than the standard rigid fittings, as they allow movement while the Truckmount is working and while driving around town, so they don't seem to break easily and appear to give more reliability to the Heat Exchangers as movement in the flexible fittings is an improvement.

The Stainless Steal Heat Exchanger kept failing when doing Tile and Grout Cleaning and as the inner and outer Coils kept rubbing on each other as they moved around in the rectangular stainless steal Heat Exchanger box while working or driving around town, the inner coil failed and had to be removed completely. Of course, the singular coil failed soon after.

I still need to Post the photos of the improved and final version that I'm very happily using in the 2015 EZ1633 Trouckmount.
Hey I'm having this same problem and would love to speak with you about it. Anyway we could speak?
 
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Hey I'm having this same problem and would love to speak with you about it. Anyway we could speak?
I'm busy during most days working, but if you've got Gmail, Facebook or some other Web based call feature, we could speak. All of my contact details are at: drycleancarpets.com.au/0430-774-493/

I'm also happy to share ideas and hopefully learn something to make work easier. Cheers Kortlee
 

JD5150

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Same here. Have mine running like a top. Blew a belt for the second time since it was new yesterday. Took 45 minutes to change it and put it back together. Had to unbolt engine because I have a coupler. Super quick and easy to work on. Got around 1500 hours on mine. Never have blown a coupler as of yet.

Made $1700.00 last Friday doing a tile job. Ran like a top all the way through the job.